Showing posts with label Voyagers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Voyagers. Show all posts

Thursday, January 03, 2008

Zephyr Tabled in 2008

As anyone who has read this blog regularly may have guessed...I am going to table it for the moment as I turn my focus to other writing projects in the New Year. I've had a great run over the past 30 or so months writing about sailing culture and - save for the very end - maintained a firm posting discipline that generated interest and attracted sailing readers from all corners of the globe. It's been my pleasure to be part of your world in this way. Good luck and best wishes for 2008!

WBM

“Men go back to the mountains, as they go back to sailing ships at sea, because in the mountains and on the sea they must face up.” - Henry David Thoreau

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Inside the High-Tech Hunt for a Missing Silicon Valley Legend

You may remember the tale of Microsoft researcher & computing legend Jim Gray...whose MIA status after leaving for a day sail off San Francisco in his red 40-foot sloop Tenacious spurred Silicon Valley luminaries and fellow techies to mount an inexhaustible search. Theories abounded. He split for old Mexico. A rogue wave swamped the boat and took it down. He had a heart attack and drifted unconscious or dead into the fierce currents that sweep the often treacherous Pacific Ocean. No matter the speculation or the swelling cast of high-tech elite scouring the waters...Gray was gone and not a trace could anyone find.

If you have twenty or so minutes, WIRED Magazine has published an in-depth look at the incident and it's a great read from the perspective of how high technology can be applied to an ocean search that, despite it's breadth and assistance from..."some of the best minds in science and technology, among them Amazon.com chief technologist Werner Vogels and top executives at Microsoft and Oracle, including Bill Gates and Larry Ellison..." has been utterly fruitless to date.

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

A Real Life Offshore Primer

This past spring saw several rescues and disasters-at-sea off this coast of North Carolina...for a refresher you can read in the Zephyr archive here and here. If you have a few minutes take a close look at this posting in the Kittyhawk Free Press - it recounts in detail the blow-by-blow of experienced transatlantic sailor Jean Pierre DeLutz's struggle to weather high seas and a sustained 75 knot wind about 200 nautical miles off the coast. He and his two crew were rescued by the Coast Guard. His beloved yacht, the Sean Seamour II, sunk.

The account should be a must read primer for any sailor making an offshore or coastal passage...whether an old or new salt. Though Jean Pierre did all he could to deal with the situation in a measured and deliberate way...a series of unlucky events combined with exhaustion and the unrelenting weather resulted in the decision to abandon ship. Kudos to Jean Pierre for sharing his ordeal with the sailing community in such excruciating detail.

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Ocean Wanderers

Sailing and the broadcast medium haven't had the best track record - not to say that big events like the America's Cup aren't covered...they are. And not to say there haven’t been movies about sailing (Captain Ron). There have. But there is dearth of good, solid broadcast programming…and I’m not talking about the fringe element of the sport but about general public access. If you agree with me then take note of this program on the “Fine Living” television network – an example of an exception to the general rule. Called “Ocean Wanderers” it documents Tony and Arien Knight who kick off the eight episode series by selling all their belongings, buying a boat (the Ocean Wanderer), grabbing their two young children and spending the next five years circumnavigating the globe.

Unfortunately the series ran in 2006 and has not been re-aired…proving my original point (also Fine Living TV isn’t exactly mainstream).

Ocean Wanderers
Ocean Wanderer on FINE LIVING is the chronicle of the Knight family's amazing voyage of exploration of the planet and themselves. Come along for the journey of a lifetime as Tony, Arien and their two children set out to realize a rare personal dream by taking five years out of their lives to sail around the world. Watch as the Knight family grows, both in size and in spirit, and weathers self-doubt, squalls, storms, pirates, injury, and everything else the Seven Seas can throw at them.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

If Wanderlust Strikes, Their House Goes, Too

If you didn't pick this up there was a very interesting article in the New York Times that ran in the "Habitats" section a few weeks back about a young 20-something couple and their experiences living aboard a 44-foot sloop, the Sarabande, docked at a marina in New Jersey. They both commute to jobs in Manhattan, crossing the river by PATH train or water taxi.

It has to mark a milestone of sorts...the NYT Real Estate section is mostly concerned with the ever rising cost of homes in the area, neighborhood profiling and general housing trends. I've never seen coverage of something as esoteric as boaties...but the price of shelter is very dear here. I suppose it was just a matter of time before the paper recognized that live aboard communities are a part of the landscape. Most New Yorkers who might occasionally find themselves near a marina might be peripherally aware of a sort of an upscale floating mobile home park...populated by would be voyagers and dreamers. But Brian Nisbett and Alicia Collins of the good yacht Sarabande are decidedly in the minority. Good for them and kudos to the Times for uncovering and giving strong treatment to a terrific story.

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

Back On the Horse

In the last post I wrote about a longtime voyager who is hanging up his "solo" hat...and no one would argue that he hasn't earned the right to do so. In a similar vein here is a piece that appeared recently out of South Africa about a couple of sailors who, despite getting fairly well beat up in the Southern Ocean, seem eager to get back in the mix. It brings to mind the old adage of,"...get right back on the horse" though given their experience one could certainly understand if they'd opted not to.

I'm intrigued by how people overcome and deal with the element of fear that ocean going in small sailing craft involves. There is the fear of the unknown, of course. Anything could happen. There is the fear of losing control. Certainly if you need a lesson on not being in control go sailing on the ocean. And then there is the pure adrenaline-charged fear that the immensity and power of the environment will often deliver directly. I'd put the guys in the story squarely in this camp...they were apparently battered by immense rogue waves.

But despite it all many of us get right back on the horse. Are we crazy or just looking for something that we can't get in our ordinary lives? Maybe a bit of both.

Friday, May 18, 2007

I would not have missed it but...

The BBC ran a story last Saturday on the "hero's return" of Sir Robin Knox Johnston - he finished the Velux 5 Oceans solo race in 4th place...at the tender age of 68. Sir Robin has a long history of ocean voyaging so he must have known intimately what he was signing on for. But I truly appreciate his reaction captured in the quote, "I would not have missed it, but I will not do it solo again." How many of us have felt that way after a tough offshore passage or a hiking trip gone bad or even a trip to the local West Marine to snare a part for the dinghy?

According to the BBC an 11-gun salute from Royal Yacht Squadron greeted him as he sailed past Cowes on the Isle of Wight on Saturday. His daughter Sara and five grandchildren were among those who welcomed him home.


Wednesday, May 16, 2007

Hell breaks loose on the Atlantic

Here's a terrific story in Soundings Magazine about events surrounding the recent (May 5) storm off of North Carolina that I referenced in my Monday post. Lt. Cdr. Daniel Molthen was the pilot of the USCG helicopter launched a little after 6:30 Monday morning to rescue the crew of one of the distressed yachts, Seaker - which was being battered in shoal waters close to the coast. Sounding provides a link to video (Quicktime plug in needed) testimonials from Molthen and other rescuers...with actual footage from the event!

“We finally found them, and they were pretty much … getting pummeled by these 30- to 40-foot waves,” Molthen says. The three sailors were inside the boat — a 70-year-old couple and their 45-year-old daughter, he says. “I got right on top of them, and finally the guy poked his head out, and we finally got radio contact with them again. We told them to wait for [the] swimmer to get near.”

Apologies for posting on two similar topics in a row but this was just too good to pass us. Besides, anything for a break from the relentless AC coverage.


Friday, April 20, 2007

S/Y Red Admiral - Homeward Bound

After six months of cruising in the Caribbean Islands my parents are homeward bound for the Northeast U.S. from the Virgins. As is typical for deliveries this time of year, they've identified a weather window and are enjoying smooth sailing as they make their way north. And, it seems, they are eating well. An update via satellite email follows...

Position: 20/40 N 64/69 W
Course & Speed: 11M 6Kts, Sailing
Progress: Distance traveled since departure: 141NM
Last 24 Hr.: 141NM
Distance to Chesapeake: 1103 NM

WEATHER: Sunny, mild, winds avg 15 Kts from SSW

COMMENTS: Sailing with jib winged out since leaving the Virgins at 1200 Hrs. yesterday. Boat and crew in good spirits! Glad to be underway. Margot served fillet, salad, bread & butter & coffee ice cream for dinner last night, leaving the crew with high expectations for the future! Weather advice indicates we will encounter a mild cold front Saturday AM and may have to sail more westerly until the winds clock to the NE, E. By Tuesday we should be in a position to sail a rumb line course to the Chesapeake. Winds are forecast to remain moderate, i.e. under 25 knots true.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Homeward Bound by way of the Virgins


My folks are taking aboard crew in the U.S.V.I. next week and pointing their bow north for the return passage to the Chesapeake Bay after an extended season of cruising in the Caribbean Islands. Recently they joined the spectator crowd at the Rolex Regatta in St. Thomas and have been hitting all the B.V.I. hot spots including Sopers Hole, Foxy's Bar on Jost Van Dyke and even a visit to the Full Moon Party at the Bomba Shack on the shores of Tortola. Beware the punch! The above is a gorgeous shot of their 46' Morris Sloop, Red Admiral, under sail off Virgin Gorda...somewhere around the Bitter End Yacht Club. If I close my eyes and shut out the hum of canned office air and the fan on my laptop I can just...barely...imagine myself on the bow seat.

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Go John Gage Go

Cruising World ran a story yesterday about John Gage, 74, who is anticipated to be one of the oldest people to have circumnavigated the globe when he sails into Raritan Bay on the New Jersey coast in early May.

Now we all agree that age is generally no barrier to sailing as long as one remains in good form...just ask Tillerman a top notch sailing blogger (and Laser cowboy) up in years who flogs the motto, "Cheat the nursing home. Die on your Laser." But sailing round the world is no mean feat for even the fittest and most stolid of sailors. John Gage may still have a few miles to cover...but I'm paying my respects in advance.

Friday, March 09, 2007

Update from S/Y Red Admiral

As regular readers know, my folks have been cruising this past winter in the Caribbean Islands aboard their 46' Morris sloop. I just received an update via satellite email and am posting it below. It was 10 degrees this AM in the Northeast U.S. Though I spent many years living and sailing in the islands through the mid to late 1990's...I sure could use a dose of it now!

Following from S/Y Red Admiral - 3/4/07 (Homeward Bound)

Hello to All from Anguilla:
Yesterday Mike and I left St. Martin where we first arrived in November and began the first leg of our homeward trip by sailing to Anguilla. We had been in St. Martin resupplying etc. for the better part of a week and had even been able to enjoy a bit of the Heineken Regatta. There are three major regattas in the Caribbean during the season: Heineken in St. Martin, the Rolex in the Virgin Islands and Antigua Race week. We will be in the Virgins for the Rolex and so
will be able to enjoy that too. It was fun to be at anchor surrounded by 300 plus racing boats all with flags flying in the breeze - very festive!

Since I last wrote, as we were leaving Dominica and Guadalupe, we have also visited both St. Kitts and Nevis as well as Antigua again.

We have had some adventures. We dragged twice while we were off the boat and when rescued by some very nice people were on the way to Panama. Needless to say we now not only back our anchor in, but also swim over it with a mask to make sure that all is well.

We have met some nice people. The English couple who rescued our boat the first time have become sailing buddies and have introduced us to other friends of theirs. We all spent 5 days waiting for a weather window in a lovely cove on St. Kitts where the sheep and cows grazed all over the hillside and the snorkeling was good. The fourth boat in the cove turned out to be an 80 year old Hungarian/American and his 72 year old wife who have made this trip from their home in Falmouth, Mass. for the last four years - amazing!!

We have had some fun. We snorkeled for a lost anchor that had fallen off one of the boats as they were anchoring in the cove on St. Kitts. The prize was 10 EC and I won! In addition to anchors we saw turtles and rays and many small reef fish. We all hiked to the beach down the road and had lunch at a fun beach bar. We cocktailed back and forth and had lunch on our boat. We toured St. Kitts and Nevis and had wonderful lunches at former plantations. Such is the
cruising life!

We will be in Anguilla with our buddies for the next three days or so and then will leave for St. Croix and the rest of the Virgins. Sandy will be joining us for the last week in March (his 60th
birthday present) and then we will begin to provision the boat for the trip home. We have 3 other men coming down to help us with the trip back. We are allowing two weeks for the return trip so hope to be picking up our mooring in Maryland by the end of April.

Wednesday, March 07, 2007

Bruce and Jan Smith

I had a tremendous comment from Mike Bernstein of the restaurant chain Bahama Breeze come through yesterday...he was writing on behalf of his friends Bruce and Jan Smith, who are currently anchored aboard their hand-built 34-ft. gaff-rigged ketch, Woodwind off Santa Barbera De Samana in the Dominican Republic. The Smiths are celebs du jour in the cruising world...for very good reasons. I won't bore you with the details because you can read all about it in far more vivid prose on their blog! Thanks Mike for writing...I visited the Bahama Breeze in Tampa Bay recently and had a very tasty dinner ;-)

Following posted by Mike Bernstein:
As a cruiser/sailing enthusiast who blogs about boats and sailing, you might be interested in another sailing blog by Bruce and Jan Smith, who are sailing to the Caribbean aboard their hand-built 34-ft. gaff-rigged ketch, Woodwind. They started the journey from their home in Gig Harbor, Washington, last summer and are now on the northern coast of the Dominican Republic. Along the way, they’re keeping their friends, family and fellow cruisers updated on their adventures with their Web site and blog.

Speaking of adventures, you might have seen the news story about the two American cruisers who rescued some Haitian migrants last week, after their boat had caught fire and blown up at sea. Bruce and Jan Smith are the two Americans! They tell the story of the tragic event and emotional rescue on their blog, including some photos.

It’s really an amazing and heroic story, and ponders a question every cruiser has probably thought about at one time or another … with the threat of piracy and other dangers when sailing miles offshore, would you risk your own safety to save someone else? The Smiths’ story provides food for thought. Hope you find it interesting!

Posted by Mike Bernstein of Bahama Breeze for Bruce and Jan Smith, who are currently anchored off Santa Barbera De Samana, Dominican Republic.

Monday, February 26, 2007

The Panic Threshold

If you didn't catch this the New York Times ran a story last week about the psychological aspects of solo sailing...with the angle that studying solo sailors can help find out how the human mind copes with life-threatening situations. The article opens with a vignette from Velux 5 Oceans solo sailor Bernard Stamm - who we learn is enduring 40-knot squalls with two hours of sleep to his name. The study is being run by psychologists for NASA, who say that the findings could benefit their astronaut-training program.

“A huge amount can be gleaned from these guys,” said Dr. Albert A. Harrison, an behavioral health adviser to NASA. “They are isolated, and under a tremendous amount of stress.”

All of this is very interesting but I really appreciated the following insight.

The lead sports psychologist at the University of Portsmouth, Dr. Neil Weston, said in a phone interview yesterday that the five sailors had a few common threads. “They all have a base mind-set that helps them react appropriately to disastrous situations,” Weston said. “Their panic threshold is higher than the average person.”

Anyone who has been in bad weather offshore...or even caught in a tough spot during a day sail...can relate to the idea of a "panic threshold." If you're going to be safe and in some cases, alive, you have to be certain that yours is high. I'd venture to say that the majority of sailing disasters are the result of panic (and sleeplessness). Makes sense that solo sailors have this in common.

Thursday, February 22, 2007

Heineken History

Calling all winter weary boat bums...it's that time of year again. My hands down favorite Caribbean Regatta, the St. Maarten Heineken is nearly upon us. A bit of Zephyr lore...11 years ago in the spring of 1996 I attended my first Heineken. At the time I was living in St. Thomas USVI working as crew aboard day charter sailboats running out of Charlotte Amalie harbor. I'd moved off the derelict sailboat I'd been bunking on (for $50 a week) into a house on Water Island. One of the Water Island locals had a sister (Jacky) married to the Captain (Noddy) of a 77' maxi sailing yacht called Javelin. Captain Noddy was the former bowman aboard the Australian maxi yacht Kiaola II and had been recruited to command the Javelin by the owner, a terrific, long time sailor from Washington DC by the name of Larry Bulman.

In any event, Noddy was looking for able bodies to round out of the crew for the regatta. I was invited through my connection, flew down to St. Maarten on Liat for four days and had the best time of my life. It took 22 crew to race the Javelin around the buoys and at night we all went out together for dinner courtesy of Larry, drank until the wee hours and got up in the morning and did it again under perfect skies and 20 knots true. I was hooked! Thus began a multi year love affair with Javelin that culminated in my job aboard as first mate for roughly 14 months...a sweet spot of life when I was in my 20's that now, chained to a desk with a family to support, I find myself hearkening back to quite regularly...

Monday, February 12, 2007

Bluewater Blogs

Looks like Cruising World has taken to calling out sailing bloggers. Here's a jump to a blurb on voyager Cathy Harris' "bluewater" blog titled "Sonadora Adventures" For some reason CW chose to focus on a post about her sea sicknessb...ut I might have mentioned all of the excellent photos that complement her sojurns. I've long been a fan of Wingsail...do any readers have favorite "Bluewater Blogs?' They've certainly developed into a distinct category of sailing blogdom and probably represent the fastest growing segment, by far.

Sunday, January 28, 2007

Dominica II


Following excerpted from an email dated 1/27/07 - S/V Red Admiral anchored Dominica, W.I.
We've had a wonderful stay here. This is a special place. Before, when coming to the Caribbean, the reason was simply to change the weather and our environment. We came, enjoyed and left, over and over during the years. Our visit this time, and never more so than to Dominica, has allowed us to understand something of the cultural history of the area. Its a completely different orientation and an unexpected benefit of the trip.

I can't convey the substance of what we've learned and understood in this medium. But I may be able to share a few of our encounters here and give you an idea of why this island is unto itself.

First, it is tremendously rich in natural beauty and resources. As our driver said, "anyone who does not have enough to eat here is lazy." Almost every vegetable, fruit, nut and spice you can think of grows here freely among the natural forest. At one time there were slave plantations dedicated to this production. Since then, the slaves have gone, the plantations have fallen into disarray for the most part, and the forest has reclaimed the land around the crops. So they now are attended to by families and are interspersed among the native flowers and trees. It all seems so natural and uncultivated. Yet Dominica supplies most of the Caribbean and much of the world with its produce.

Second, the people are very forthcoming and friendly with one another and with strangers. They speak English, which of course helps from our point of view. But despite extremely simple, basic living conditions, there is laughter, music and good humor almost without exception. The children wear clothes that are pressed and clean. They may live in our notion of a hovel, but you would never know that from their appearance.

Some years ago, in the 1980's, Dominica had a bad reputation in the cruising community. There were thefts, at least one case of murder, and other events which led most guides to say "stay away." Fifteen years ago a young man (now 35) named "Martin" persuaded everyone preying on visiting yachts to form an Association. He secured government support. Membership required going through an education program in Dominica's history, resources, etc and certification . The group organized security patrols at night. The thefts stopped. Prices were posted for different tours led by informed people. Boats arriving to Dominica did not have to take advantage of this, but if they wanted to see the Island (which is big), it was the natural choice. The guide books changed their advice about coming here. They named and recommended the Association. Now today, many young men are gainfully employed, have come to take great pride in their Island, and make visiting here a unique experience.

At some point I'll put together some pictures which will give you a sense of the area. We'll be here another two days and then turn North, beginning our journey home.

Thursday, January 25, 2007

Here Now, Gone Tomorrow.

If you've been reading Zephyr for the past several months you'll know that my folks are cruising this winter (click the "Voyagers" tab to recall the postings) in the Caribbean aboard their 46' Morris sloop. They had a rough passage down in November, recovered in St. Maarten, spent the holidays in Antigua and are now making their way to Dominica by way of Guadeloupe...which will be their southernmost point for the season. From there they'll turn back north and make their way to the Virgins where they'll take aboard crew and make the passage back to the Northeast U.S. in mid-April. I recieved an email titled "Here now, gone tomorrow" from my father via satellite yesterday and - as it's not only well written but paints a very clear picture of their experience - I'm posting an excerpt below.
----------------------------------------
From an email dated 1/24/07 "Here Now, Gone Tomorrow"
S/V Red Admiral anchored Iles des Saintes, French W.I.
Thought I would give you a sense of where we are. Things have settled out. Mechanical issues seem distant. We've now been at the "Saints" a week. Tomorrow we leave for Dominica.

We've slowed down a lot. Mentally. And in fact. We still get up at 6:00. One of us rises to turn the coffee on. Then the generator. Any work gets done before 10:30. After that, the sun's too hot and the shade too scarce.

Our boat gets prettier and prettier the longer we are on it. We completed a full clean and waxing three days ago. Yesterday afternoon we completed the last of the toe-rails, re-varnishing. A Captain in St. Martin introduced us to a new product called Awlbrite Plus. Its a three component mixture. Costly, but lasts and lasts. This morning, we started the cockpit combings and coach roof beads or eyebrows. We can do two coats a day so it doesn't take long. Need to miss the rain showers though. That could ruin a lot of preparation.

This has been a different window on the world, for sure. We have rented scooters, seen beaches and botanical gardens etc., but we don't go out at night generally, preferring our cockpit watching the sun go down. So far we haven't put on any of our movies--not one since leaving Oxford (MD). Its just too pretty. Hard to trade in for a DVD. There is no inclination whatsoever.

Dinners are over candlelight in the cockpit. We listen to music of all kinds every night. Drinks start at 6:00. By 10:00 we've generally retired. In some ways, this trip seems more about our own experience together than seeing the Islands, as such. A boat environment is a very good way to get close to your lady. And both of us, I think this is right, love being afloat. It is very simplifying. Challenging but renewing. We got used to rum punches at noon at Mill Reef and have been bothering them now for a week to get their recipe. "Settles out your thinking. . . ." BBC for news or not. No big deal.

Truth is, we don't care all that much about seeing every Island. So, we’ve slowed down considerably. The water is unbelievably clear. I've run the water maker 60 hours since arriving, making 18 gallons an hour. Still, the filters need no cleaning.!

The plan is to turn north after Dominica There are several stops, St. Kitts, Nevis, maybe Anguilla, before reaching the Virgins the first week in March. April 15 is our planned departure date.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Bound for Guadeloupe

Until now I've been able to follow my parents path - they're cruising their sloop in the Caribbean Islands this winter - with some degree of understanding. They made landfall in St. Maarten. I'm a veteran of no less than three St. Maarten Heineken Regattas. They proceeded to St. Barths for a brief visit. I've made numerous "on charter" visits to the sparkling port town of Gustavia. From there they took a sail by St. Kitts. I've never been ashore but have anchored off. And they spent the holidays in Antigua, an island I've been visiting since I was a boy. But now they're going off the map - at least my somewhat limited map - bound for Guadeloupe, an island deep in the heart of the French Caribbean. In reading through the wikipedia article I came across an interesting fact about Guadeloupe...it's culture is probably best known for the islanders' literary achievements, particularly the poetry of Saint-John Perse, the pseudonym used by Alexis Léger. Perse won the 1960 Nobel Prize in Literature "for the soaring flight and the evocative imagery of his poetry which in a visionary fashion reflects the conditions of our time."

"The Sea . . . on its confines, under its falconry of white clouds, like a tax-free domain and like entailed land, like a province of rank weeds that was wagered on the dice." - Seamarks (1954 )

Thursday, January 04, 2007

Solo Sailor Barnes Near Rescue

Today is a lucky day for American voyager Ken Barnes. The A.P. is reporting that a Chilean navy search plane has spotted the solo sailor on his storm-battered yacht off the southern tip of South America. According to the report, a trawler was heading to rescue him. Barnes, 47, set off from Long Beach, Calif., on Oct. 28 in a 44-foot ketch called the Privateer in hopes of sailing around the world. His girlfriend, Cathy Chambers, said he called her Tuesday in California on his satellite phone to say he was in trouble due to a storm. He told Chambers he had lost engine power and steering and had two broken masts and broken hatches. The Privateer was also taking on water in 46-mph winds and 25-foot swells, she said.

Down but not out, Ken. Hang in there buddy...the Chilean navy is coming to the rescue :-)